I get asked regularly which bolts to remove to take the faceplate off the roaster. A bit of deductive reasoning and you can figure out on your own very easy, but we put together a few bolt pattern diagrams and guides to help.
NOTE: Before accessing the front plate of the roaster, on the M1, the front heat shield cover simply lifts off. On the M2, M6, and M10 the heat shield cover is held on by two screws. The screws can be found behind the start shaped hole on each side of the front heat shield.
NOTE: Before removing the front plate, I would recommend loosening the thermocouple clamp, and pulling the thermocouple out before proceeding to removing the front of the roaster.
Q&A:
- Q: The bolts you said are wrong, I still cant get it off...
- A: That might add to some confusion, but during roasting, your roaster will create oils that might make the faceplate stick to the front of the roasting chamber. If it still seems like your front plate is stuck, try opening the dump chute door and grab between the door and the top hopper metal. It should break free quite easily. Even if it is a brand new roaster it can feel stuck in place (we don't recommend people taking apart their brand new roasters FYI).
The following bolt patterns are for the Kaleido V2 "Sealed" model roasters:
For a full article on Kaleido maintenance, please visit our maintenance page https://kaleidoroasters.com/pages/kaleido-maintenance
Kaleido M1:
The Kaleido M1 uses 2.5mm allen head screws to hold the faceplate on. Please use a 2.5mm allen key.
Kaleido M2:
The Kaleido M2 uses 3mm allen head screws to hold the faceplate on. Please use a 3mm allen key.
Kaleido M6:
The Kaleido M6 uses 3mm allen head screws to hold the faceplate on. Please use a 3mm allen key.
Kaleido M10:
The Kaleido M10 uses 3mm allen head screws to hold the faceplate on. Please use a 3mm allen key.
